For Improvers & Intermediate Players
You only need 4 x people (min) to begin your own Private Group Class. The dates and times are then agreed mutually to ensure everyone is able to attend all the classes. Equipment is supplied where necessary.
Click here for more info Customised & Affordable Group Coaching
Learning in a group is fun and especially a private group with your friends.
“The art of teaching is to make learning both easy and fun. Peter achieves this with consummate ease. We have progressed so quickly, even if my son and wife have progressed quicker than myself! Thank you, Peter. I would recommend your teaching to everyone” Dr Huw Jones MB ChB, Harley Street, London
“Finally, after 35 years I found a professional that has helped me understand this game called golf. I was seriously thinking about giving up before I met Peter. Now I am enjoying my golf again and playing better than ever”. Rolf Lueken Hcp 8
Enter directly with the venue club.
Thu 5th Sep
Trofeo SAR Princesa Birgitta de Suecia (Golf Santa Ponsa II)
Fri 6th Sep
Trofeo SAR Princesa Birgitta de Suecia (Golf Santa Ponsa II)
Sat 7th Sep
Trofeo SAR Princesa Birgitta de Suecia (Golf Santa Ponsa I)
Sat 14th Sep
I Mallorca Greensome Chapman Trophy (Golf Santa Ponsa II)
Sat 21st & Sun 22nd Sep
Trofeo FBG * Equipos (Golf Son Muntaner)
V Prueba Circuito Senior Interdomicilio (Real Golf de Bendinat)
Learn to play Golf in just 7 classes!
You only need 4 x people (min) to begin your own Complete Beginners Course. The dates and times are then agreed mutually to ensure everyone is able to attend all the classes. Equipment is supplied where necessary.
Click here for more info Customised & Affordable Group Coaching
When teaching complete beginners we believe the best way is to start at the hole and work backwards. Here is a short video to explain more;
“Last week a great friend and I went to stay at her flat in Mallorca and sadly it rained and was overcast every day. The only saving grace was managing to fit in 2 golf lessons with Peter during the only semi bright spots of weather. Neither of us had played golf before apart from a couple of visits with boyfriends to driving ranges but we really wanted to learn. We know other golf professionals on the island but they suggested Peter as they said he would have us playing a full round of golf in only 6 lessons. We started with a putting lesson that seemed daunting but due to his patience and brilliant explanations we had got to grips with this after only an hour which seemed incredible and gave us a real boost. The day after we had our chipping lesson which again appeared extremely difficult but soon we were getting the ball onto the green and could then putt it in. Peter never made us feel rushed and we were genuinely astonished by how much we grasped in just two hours. When we return later in the year we shall certainly be returning to continue our tuition.” Rachel Edmonds & Frances Neild
“When I asked Peter to build me a set of clubs, he refused. Instead he conducted a very thorough fitting and made me a 7 Iron only. I was delighted with it and very quickly ordered the full set. Not only do the ORKA clubs look fantastic, without changing my swing I am now 10m longer and have no back pain. I also paid a lot less than I was expecting to for custom built clubs. I will never buy from a shop again.” Martin Zaepfel
Correctly fitted equipment can make a HUGE difference to EVERY golfer. In fact, most golfers are using ill-fitted equipment & making unwanted compensations during their swings to accommodate these shortfalls. In recent years, golfers have become more aware of the importance of having their equipment custom-fit. We can offer you a truly bespoke custom-fit service for EVERY club in your bag and you will probably pay LESS than you would for “off the shelf” or “fitted” brand names. Clubs built especially for you AND the are cheaper! There must be a downside? The only downside is you will have to wait for them (2 weeks approx).
Everyone wants to hit it as far as possible! It just as important to control the shot dispersion. A custom-built Driver will ensure maximum distance and accuracy…..
Correctly built Irons will improve your ball striking enabling you to hit more greens. Distance and accuracy will be optimised …
Loft, Lie, Length, Flex ……..etc……
To compliment your driver and optimise your distance and accuracy from the fairway.
Dont underestimate the importance of custom built wedges. Accuracy and distance control is at a premium with correct “bounce” a huge factor.
A great alternative to long irons for a lot of players!
Quite simply the MOST important club in your bag. Learn why “off the shelf” putters are very rarely the best option.
Offering the ultimate in “cool”, clubheads designed by you, for you. Sets can have ANY logo or text that you desire! Football club crests, your children’s names & dates of births, anniversaries… the choice is only limited by your imagination!
What will you have on yours?
Orka Prices 2014
Golf is never simple. We can spend hours on the driving range trying to find a reliable swing and, just when we get to the point where we have found something, we go out on the course and never get an opportunity to test it. There is almost always some kind of slope to factor into the equation. Here we will look at the four basic types of “hill lies” and how to play them. In all cases take a slightly wider stance for stability and swing within yourself to avoid losing your balance. Take one extra club to allow for the “easy” swing.
In the four photos coaching legend Butch Harmon shows us how it’s done.
When the ball lies on an upslope you must take a longer club as the upward angle of the slope tilts the clubface backward and therefore adds loft. Place the ball slightly more forward than normal, and try to get your shoulders parallel to the slope. If your shoulders are too level, you will most likely be too steep at impact. As Butch Harmon likes to say, “Set up with the slope, and then swing up the slope.” You should also adjust your aim at set up. Swinging uphill correctly tends to send the ball a bit left because your hands and arms are releasing upward through the stroke and that causes the clubface to rotate closed. So aim your body and club a little right of normal.
When playing from a down slope, take less club as the slope “delofts” the clubface. Position the ball back a little and, as with the uphill lie, feel as if you set up with your shoulders parallel to the slope. You probably won’t actually achieve this on a down slope (especially a severe one) but it is important to have the feeling that your shoulders are going with the slope. If you don’t angle your shoulders, your body will be tilted against the slope in a conflicting manner, which is never good. You will almost certainly hit the ground before the ball. Swinging downhill correctly tends to send the ball right because you are extending your arms down the slope and “holding off “ the clubface rotation. Don’t worry about trying to release through impact; just point a little left to compensate.
SIDEHILL – Ball Below Feet
The big problem here can be reaching the ball without falling over. Most players will allow the weight to drift forward into their toes as this is the natural thing, and/or stand up during the downswing to avoid falling over. Neither of these two tendencies will result in consistent strikes from lies where the ball is below your feet. The secret here is to “sit” into the set up position. Lower your centre of gravity and flex those knees. Your weight should be in your heels and it is really important that you maintain the knee flex throughout the swing. Because of this awkward sitting position, body turn during the swing is restricted. It will be more of a hands and arms type swing. Your body relative to the slope will make for a very upright swing and an open clubface at impact. This will curve the ball to the right so aim left and allow for the slice.
SIDEHILL – Ball Above Feet
This lie brings the ball closer to you, so you naturally stand a little taller. Grip the club shorter, down an inch or so to accommodate the shorter reach to the ball. This time get your weight a little more in your toes; gravity will be trying to pull you down the hill as you swing (to your heels).From this upright posture, the swing will be “flatter” or more around the body, not unlike a baseball swing. This creates more hand and arm rotation through the impact area, which results in the clubface closing at a faster rate than normal on the downswing. The flatter swing plane changes the angle of the club relative to the ground, which points the clubface to the left of the target. The more loft you have in your hands the more the face will point left. Aim right to allow for these factors and don’t be afraid to aim well right when the slope is steep and you are using a short iron.
You should start by looking at your footwork for solid ball striking. All great ball strikers have good footwork in common. I will often video the feet of a student separately when analysing their swing.
The power is sourced from the ground and a proper swing starts from the ground up. Imagine trying to play golf wearing ice skates… how far could you hit it then? Golf shoes have studs for a reason, and both feet should be in contact with the ground at address and remain in contact with the ground during the backswing. At the completion of the backswing around 75 per cent of your weight should have shifted to your right foot (for right-handed golfers). The majority of golfers can manage this without too many issues; it is the downswing that causes the problems.
Most high-handicappers struggle with their footwork. Some get up on their toes on the downswing, which most often causes a wicked slice or a pull hook. Others fall back on their heels, which causes similar problems. To “strike it better” the ball MUST be hit it on the downswing. To achieve this your weight must transfer to your left foot during the downswing.
Here’s the key: at impact you should have around 75 per cent of your weight on your left foot and most of that should be in the left heel. Get the footwork right and then you will be able to keep your hands in front of the clubhead at impact and hit “ball then the ground” (see how Tiger does it in the photo sequence).
Hit from grass, NOT mats, for this drill. With the ball in the centre of your stance and a 7 or 8-iron in your hand. Stick a tee peg FLUSH into the ground three to four centimetres in FRONT of your ball. The aim is to HIT the tee. The ball will, of course, get in the way and be struck on the downswing before the bottom of the swing arc.
The downward motion of the clubhead compresses the golf ball on the clubface. The point of separation is clearly before the clubhead contacts the ground. The lines on the ball show the backspin generated.
Hitting a driver can be likened to watering the flowers with a garden hose. To reach the flowers at the very back you have to get the trajectory just right. Too low and the water doesn’t reach; too high and it won’t reach either.
Somewhere in between is the point where the water carries the farthest for that particular water pressure. Your swing speed is the water pressure and in this issue I will explain how you can increase the distance you hit the golf ball with your driver, without swinging it faster.
There are four basic components that determine how far a golf ball will fly: clubhead speed at impact, launch angle, backspin and centredness of strike. We are not going to change the clubhead speed and, of course, we all know the ball will go further if it comes off the centre of the clubface.
To get the most from our new 460cc Titanium drivers we must INCREASE the launch angle AND at the same time REDUCE the backspin. We do this by simply hitting the ball on the UPSWING. (see the image above for tee height).
With the irons we should be hitting the ball then the ground (see last month’s “Strike it Better” article). With fairway woods we should collect the ball at the bottom of the swing arc. With the driver we want to be hitting the ball AFTER the bottom of the arc when the clubhead is on the rise. The club itself is designed for this.
A typical tour player will have a clubhead speed of between 110 and 120mph (177 to 193kph) with a driver, and hit it from the centre most of the time. The ideal launch angle is around 12° and the backspin around 2000rpm. The tour drivers have 8° or 9° of loft on the face to allow them to be hit on the up and produce the required 12° launch angle. It is the upward blow that reduces the backspin.
Note the tee still in place AFTER impact.
- Put the ball more forward in your stance and tee it higher.
- Practice until you can hit it up but leave the tee peg in the ground.
- If you get under the ball and “sky it” the solution is NOT lowering the tee. Lowering the tee leads to steeper downswings, which increase backspin.
- You CANNOT hit UP from a low tee and find the middle of the clubface.
Learn from your ball on every shot – Your golf ball does not know or care who is hitting it or how good you are. How the ball behaves after the message is delivered (impact) is pure physics. In terms of direction there are only two relevant factors contained in the “message” that the golf ball responds to. These are;
Swing path – in relation to the BALL to TARGET lineThis is the direction in which the club head is travelling as it makes contact with the ball. There are three possibilities:
- Straight down the target line
- Left of the target line (OUT to IN)
- Right of the target line (IN to OUT)
Club face angle – in relation to the SWING PATH
- Square to the path (90-degree angle to the swing path) – no side spin and ball flies straight
- Closed to path (pointing left) – ball curves in flight right to left
- Open to path (pointing right) – ball curves in flight left to right
Reading your shots (only 9 to learn) – One of the fastest ways to improve at golf is to learn something from every shot that you hit. This is called “instant feedback”. By observing how your ball flies after impact you should be able to deduce precisely in what direction the club was travelling (swing path) and where the face was pointing relative to that path (clubface angle) as the ball was struck. In most cases the starting direction of your shots will give you a pretty good idea of the swing path. From there, club face angle relative to the path of the swing will determine the side spin. By observing the curvature of the ball flight you will be able to determine if the club face was open, closed or square.
For example, let’s examine a typical shot for a right-handed player that starts well left of the target but slices off to the right of the target. With a ball flight that starts to the left, we know that the player’s swing path is coming across the body (IN to OUT), heading to the left of the target. In order for the ball to curve to the right, clockwise sidespin must have been created. This happens when the clubface is left open, or to the right, of the swing path.
Check your divots – If you read my November article “Strike it Better” you will understand that after most iron shots there should be a divot taken out of the turf. The divot is the easiest way to gather feedback about your swing path. If the divot points to the left of the target, you are swinging OUT to IN. Conversely, if your divot is directed right, you are swinging IN to OUT. The only way to have a square divot is to swing straight down the target line through impact.
Understanding the effect of loft – It is important to understand that not all the clubs in your bag behave the same way. I often see people who say, “I hit my 7-iron straight enough but I slice my driver.” Normally, upon closer examination we see that the 7-iron curves slightly left to right and the driver violently left to right. This is because EVERY golf ball in flight has BACK SPIN. The more loft on the face the more back spin will be imparted. Back spin is more dominant than side spin and will effectively cancel out any curvature on the flight of a golf ball.
As we go down the bag in search of more distance the back spin starts to reduce and any side spin that we are producing will start to move the ball in the air. A violent slice will have between 500 and 1000 rpm of side spin. The average golfer produces over 10,000 rpm of back spin with a sand wedge and around 3,000 rpm with a driver.
Your golf ball is the best teacher you could ever wish for!
Can’t stop slicing? Losing distance because the ball curves violently in the air? Let’s look at it from a logical point of view.There are two basic elements to a slice. Cold, hard logic will serve us well and we will become better golfers who have more control over the shape of our shots. A slice can be very frustrating but what exactly makes the ball slice? What you see (pronounced curvature of the ball in flight) is the effect, NOT the cause, of the slice. So what causes the slice?
The answer is very simply sideways spin on the ball. (We are going to assume a right-handed player to keep it simple. Lefties need to reverse things, which I’m sure they’re used to by now. When viewed from above the ball is spinning clockwise. The air grabs hold of the spin and curves to the side. This effect is magnified in wind. Slicers hate a left to right wind.
Now we have to look at what causes this side spin? This is where things start to get a bit more interesting. A basic golf fundamental is relevant here. The ball goes where the clubface is pointing, AT IMPACT. This should be taught to every beginner from day one. It is a physical law. So that must mean that the clubface is open (to the right) at impact. But, since it CURVES to the right, that means that the face is open relative to the direction the club head is travelling at impact (that’s what makes it spin sideways – a glancing blow). Now we are starting to understand what causes the spin.
In addition to the clubface being open it is also very likely that the club is travelling across the intended target line from outside to in through impact (divots point left); this increases the side spin and only adds to the problem.
So, without my actually witnessing your golf swing, it is safe to assume that if you are a slicer your swing path is out to in.
This is where we should start to cure your slice, by changing the path of your golf club through the ball. Sounds too easy? It’s not but if you make the change at the correct point in the swing then it will cure your slice. The change must happen at the top of your backswing. As you complete the backswing and start the downswing you need to “loop” the club back. UP – BACK – DOWN. This will stop the forward move that puts the club on the out to in path. Known as “casting”, all slicers swing (up – forward – down). To rectify this casting movement and swing up and down on plane we need to feel the BACK part of it. It is only a feeling that the club goes back but it is essential while undergoing the change that we feel as if the club goes UP – BACK – DOWN.
Once you have succeeded in changing your swing path you will immediately see that the ball now starts to the right and keeps going further right. This is because the club face is still open. You used to need an open club face to counteract the fact that your club is moving across the target line (out to in). Once you see that the club is moving correctly (check your divots) you can then set about squaring the club face at impact.